“Derek Lucci, our superb contributor of Thai recipes, has given me an entire new perspective on drunken noodles. Firstly, his model is rather more distinct from the pad see ew–esque renditions many US eating places dole out. And secondly, you barely even want the noodles—and that is not a nasty factor. What this dish is absolutely all about are these screaming flavors that smack, drop-kick, and noogie your tongue unexpectedly. It is intensely spicy with layered chile warmth, loudly fragrant with literal mouthfuls of lime leaf, and suffused with the natural efficiency of basil (ideally holy basil, however Thai basil works in a pinch, even when the flavour is completely different). That is the form of factor I would run out my door to seize the requisite substances, then flash up in a wok for a filling snack every time the temper strikes or my sinuses want clearing or I simply need each final one among my sensory neurons lit as much as remind me that I am nonetheless alive and kicking regardless of this chilly, darkish month.” —Daniel Gritzer, editorial director