Wherever on this planet she is, Clarissa Wei hardly ever takes the final piece of meals for herself.  

Wei, a journalist, cookbook creator, and Critical Eats contributor from Los Angeles who at present lives in Taipei, grew up sharing plentiful meals together with her dad and mom and youthful brother. “There was all the time a vegetable, a fish, a protein, a meat, fruit,” she says. “It might be approach an excessive amount of for simply 4 individuals.”

Her dad and mom, Taiwanese immigrants who got here to the USA within the Nineteen Eighties whereas Taiwan was within the midst of an financial increase—a.okay.a the Taiwan Miracle—“didn’t have any cash in any respect” rising up, says Wei. The plentiful meals of Wei’s childhood had been, she feels, a approach of overcompensating for that still-fresh reminiscence of shortage. 

“Whenever you’re cooking a meal for individuals in Taiwanese and Chinese language tradition, or among the many Chinese language diaspora, most individuals overcook—particularly this present day when we’ve a lot abundance,” says Wei. In these cultures, “a hospitable [host] is somebody who offers you extra meals than you possibly can deal with.” However on the identical time, consuming the final piece dangers offending the host, Wei explains—insinuating that you simply’re nonetheless hungry and that the host hasn’t offered sufficient meals.

This oft-unspoken rule is about as common because it will get in relation to meals associated etiquette. In components of Spain, that final morsel is called la/el de la vergüenza; in Germany, it’s das Anstandsstück, or das Anstandsrest; schaambrokje within the Netherlands; trivselbit in Sweden; and so forth, with the phrase itself normally translating to some model of “the decency piece” or “the disgrace.” Simply as usually, nonetheless, there’s no identify for it in any respect—equivalent to in Minnesota, the place comically small bites of meals will usually go uneaten for politeness’ sake.

So how precisely does one reconcile the truth that this rule exists in so many cultures—particularly ones so geographically and culturally distant from each other?

Krishnendu Ray, scholar and director of the New York College Meals Research PhD program, provides a few theories—certainly one of which ties on to his personal life. Rising up in a middle-class household in India, Ray lived “in very shut proximity to people who find themselves hungry,” he says. Because of this, “one of many guidelines of etiquette was you by no means take the final morsel, since you don’t know who else is hungry,” he explains.

Ray, who has spent years dwelling overseas in international locations like Italy, theorizes that in cultures decimated by conflict, colonialism, or different main social upheaval, taking the final piece can really feel like a significant transgression. His shut European associates—in addition to their dad and mom or grandparents—“all the time have a proximate reminiscence of starvation,” says Ray, which he attributes to the enduring influence and generational trauma of two World Wars. In distinction, Ray says, his son—who has had a snug upbringing in New York, with “no identifiable sense of shortage”—will take the final piece with out hesitating.

In some instances, the rule of the final morsel might harken again even additional than World Struggle I. In her e-book, Past Bratwurst: A Historical past of Meals in Germany, meals historian Ursula Heinzelmann writes, “Till the mid-twelfth century, serving monumental quantities of meals and entertaining massive teams was a sign of elevated social rank. Thereafter, probably as a result of the decrease courses may more and more afford sufficient to fulfill their starvation, overly hearty consuming was frowned upon by the aristocracy.”

Heinzelmann, who was born in West Berlin in 1963, was herself raised by no means to take das Anstandsstück. “With an honest upbringing, you understand to not seize, greedily, for the final piece of cake, or no matter there’s on the desk,” she says. It’s one thing that “anybody with a ‘good’ household background and upbringing would have skilled, virtually like to not fart or belch.”

In Italy, Fabio Parasecoli, creator and professor of meals research at NYU’s Steinhardt Faculty, realized an analogous system of etiquette from his dad and mom and grandparents. Parasecoli grew up within the Sixties, throughout Italy’s “financial miracle”—a interval of speedy financial progress much like the one Wei’s dad and mom witnessed in Taiwan. Throughout this era, Parasecoli writes in his e-book Al Dente: A Historical past of Meals in Italy, many Italians skilled monetary stability for the very first time. This included entry to inexpensive and plentiful meals—a lot of it obtainable at supermarkets, an American innovation that was launched to Italy in 1957.

Even amidst this abundance, losing even a chunk of meals nonetheless felt unthinkable to individuals like Parasecoli’s grandmother. “Why aren’t you consuming your whole meals?” Parasecoli recollects his grandmother—who lived via each World Wars—asking. “Are you leaving la creanza?”­ 

La creanza—actually, “the great manners”—refers to that final piece on the plate. This was carried out, Parasecoli says, “fare una bella figura,” or to go away a superb impression and present that you simply’re not anxious about going hungry, he­ explains. ­The unstated rule of leaving the final piece stays even now, when starvation is much much less prevalent than it was throughout wartime, says Parasecoli. “It’s kind of a leftover of a previous the place shortage was a actuality.” Nonetheless, he explains, “there’s all the time a pressure—particularly for individuals of older generations—between the need of showing well mannered, and the avoidance of waste.”

This final little piece is nearly by no means thrown away, nonetheless. In Ray’s case, significantly when he would eat dinner together with his household in Delhi, he stated, “everybody type of prevented taking the final bit, a lot in order that mainly, within the fridge you have got these little bowls of meals leftover.” 

At Chinese language and Taiwanese dinner tables, Wei defined, the most effective transfer is to not eat the final piece your self, however to supply it to every particular person visitor. “Say there’s one piece of rooster left–you supply it to your pal, you supply it to whomever is on the desk.” To do in any other case can be “extremely impolite,” says Wei. 

Gender additionally performs a job on this unstated rule of desk etiquette. Creator and meals scholar Darra Goldstein says that an previous American perception taught women by no means to take the final piece, lest they wind up single—i.e., grow to be an previous maid. To Goldstein, this perception doubtless speaks to each the actual scrutiny positioned on a woman’s conduct, and to “dad and mom’ deeper fears about their kid’s future.” 

In Italy, “ladies would depart extra meals for his or her children and for the person,” says Parasecoli. Whereas this conduct hasn’t utterly disappeared, he explains, the abundance of meals now obtainable in Italy—a minimum of in comparison with pre-economic miracle days—has made it far much less prevalent. 

Anita Mannur, Director of Asia, Pacific, and Diaspora Research at American College, grew up aware of an analogous set of gender guidelines. Amongst her prolonged household in India, the place Mannur spent a portion of her childhood, “the ladies would all the time eat second, and the lads and the children would eat first,” she says. In Mannur’s personal home, nonetheless, these guidelines had been barely subverted. Mannur’s mom, who grew up in India, insisted that the final piece go to the youngest, regardless of the gender. “She was like, ‘I need you to consider different individuals, have humility, however not since you’re a woman.’” 

Within the Philippines, the place author and historian Adrian De Leon lived earlier than immigrating to Toronto at age six, anybody taking the final piece with out asking others might invite the Tagalog pejorative “walang hiya”—translating, roughly, to “you haven’t any disgrace.” Based on a TikTok video posted by the Philippines-based on-line publication, When in Manila, “Taking it signifies that you’re thoughtless, you don’t share, and that you simply don’t respect anybody else within the room.” Whereas the video comes off as barely hyperbolic, De Leon says it rings true. “I’ve by no means heard it known as that, however I do know precisely what he’s speaking about.”

Walang hiya additionally extends into practically all spheres of public Filipino, particularly Tagalog, life. De Leon was taught that no matter he did outdoors the house mirrored how his dad and mom—significantly his father—raised him. “Once I began going to remedy, it was truly very shameful—it was walang hiya,” says De Leon. “‘Are you not ashamed that anyone will know our secrets and techniques?’” he remembers his father asking him. An individual may also be known as walang hiya if they freely categorical queer or trans id, or, as De Leon explains, in the event that they someway act “additional”—overly loud or expressive—in public.

As for the final morsel, it might be one thing as coveted because the fish head—certainly one of De Leon’s favorites—or as primary because the “sliver of rice” that his mom would usually depart on her plate. Selecting whether or not to take it’s a fixed wrestle—particularly as an grownup, De Leon explains. “I take a look at that piece of fish, and I’m like ‘I wish to end that!’” he says. “[But] I’ll nonetheless discover myself not eager to do it [around family].”

Wei feels an analogous ambivalence: “I’ve this inner battle typically the place it’s like my American facet vs. my Taiwanese facet, the place typically I’ll simply take the final piece, and be like ‘you understand what, I don’t care!’” she says. When eating with all Taiwanese individuals, nonetheless, “I positively don’t take the final piece.” 

Some individuals, however, by no means even encounter this rule. Amy Besa—co-owner of the longtime Brooklyn restaurant Purple Yam, which closed in the course of the summer season of 2024 resulting from Besa and her husband’s retirement—grew up within the Philippines previous to the nation’s interval of martial regulation, which ran from 1972 to 1981. Besa by no means had any hiya (disgrace) round meals whereas rising up. “That appears so unfavorable!” says Besa.

In Besa’s case, it could have one thing to do with household dimension, she theorizes. Her older brothers moved out when she was younger, so it was normally simply her and her dad and mom on the dinner desk, with no need for rationing; meals was primarily a supply of pleasure. “For me, consuming is such a cheerful approach of communing with individuals, proper?” she says. “So if anyone desires to eat rather a lot, then hey, nice!”

In so some ways, that final chunk of meals symbolizes the wealthy, complicated, usually paradoxical dynamics at play once we eat with others. Meals, Parasecoli explains, “is the place you negotiate your id, your social relations, your standing, your recollections.” The dinner desk is a spot the place Mannur’s mom can select to subvert inscribed gender guidelines and provides the final piece of meals to her youngest daughter; it’s the place Wei can resolve to present the final piece of fruit to her son “out of affection,” somewhat than a way of internalized disgrace, she says. 

Regardless of these fixed negotiations, consuming dinner with a gaggle doesn’t have to really feel fraught. Every time De Leon’s household goes to dinner with their shut household associates, “We all know that Tita makes hella meals,” he says, utilizing the Tagalog phrase for aunt or auntie. “And we’re going to freaking get pleasure from it it doesn’t matter what. And we’re going to take some residence if we don’t end it.”

September 2024